Book Board Chat

Luck of the Irish

There can't be many hotels whose opening is accompanied by a 240-page glossy coffee table book detailing its history and restoration. But then Ballyfin is not exactly your average hotel. This imposing neo-classical stone mansion is tucked behind thick, boundary walls deep in the heart of the lush green countryside about an hour and a half by car from Dublin.

Ballyfin was built in the 1820s by Sir Christopher Coote on the site of another pile previously occupied among others by William Wellesley Pole. But Ballyfin's fortunes changed and in the 1930s it began a new life as a boarding school. But a decade ago the house was bought by an American and his Irish-born wife. They were on the hunt for a restoration project that would also make the perfect hotel. No expense was spared when it came to the renovation ­- it took eight years and an undisclosed sum to return the house to its former Regency opulence. The owners' intention is for Ballyfin to hark back to its heyday as a fabulous country retreat - but with better plumbing and five-star service.

On Ballyfin's ground floor there is a series of opulent entertaining rooms, a dramatic, duck-egg blue stairhall and also a fabulous, wrought-iron Turner conservatory. The interiors are a sophisticated twist on traditional country-house style. The look perfectly complements many of Ballyfin's elaborate architectural details. There is silk upholstery and French antiques in the Gold Drawing Room, with its original stuccowork. There is a clubby feel to the library. All very grand but not intimidating.

On the first floor, there are just 13 bedrooms and two suites each with its own distinctive character. I checked in to The Tapestry Room, adorned with 17th-century Flemish wall hangings depicting sylvan scenes, set off by sage green carpets, buttermilk curtains and a four-poster bed. Bathrooms, mainly carved out of the original dressing rooms, feature separate showers and huge baths perfect for steamy soaks.

Ballyfin's gracious proportions are also the perfect foil for the owners' extensive collection of Irish art and antiques. There are pre-dinner cocktails in the library, but no pressure to socialize. Dinner is a grand yet relaxed affair in the magnificent State Dining Room with its oil paintings, chandeliers and views over the garden. The menu showcases Irish produce, including vegetables from the walled gardens, executed with a sophisticated French touch.

During my stay, though, the sun was shining, so Ballyfin's 600 acres of parkland and gardens beckoned. Much of the grounds pre-date the Regency mansion, such as the 27-acre lake and an 18th-century grotto. Well-maintained paths criss-cross through gardens, ancient woodlands of beech, oak and horse chestnut and swaying grass meadows that can all be explored by foot or on one of Ballyfin's complimentary bicycles. On a hill above the house is a mid-18th-century folly-style tower affording spectacular 360-degree views of the surrounding countryside. There is also an indoor swimming pool and gym.

Ballyfin is an expensive proposition, particularly in these prudent times. But the pleasure of a night or two here is to stay put and just luxuriate in the house and its surroundings. It's easy to stray into daydream territory and pretend it's the country pile you will never own without all the associated bills - just the one when you check out. Doubles include all activities. The two-night art weekend includes full board with a visit to Birr Castle and lectures.

http://www.thisislondon.co.uk/travel/article-23994890-the-luck-of-the-irish.do